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Rear brake not working after wheel removal


madmike

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Posted

Yesterday I removed the rear wheel of my NC29 to give it a bloody good clean! :eusa_whistle:

All back on fine... then nipped out before and noticed it had little effect, Only works when I'm stopped, When I rock the bike back and forth it won't move but it will if I accelerate.

To the time before to bleed it and couldn't really see any air in the system, Gave it a good clean through anyway, But it still isn't doing much?

Not really removed a rear wheel before so I'm hoping I've just missed something silly :D

Thanks gays guys

Posted

you need to pump the peddle repeatedly till it starts working again.

Posted

Any chance the disc has gone back between piston and pads if you see what I mean.

Instead of between the 2 pads it might have gone behind one meaning the 2 pads are together and the braking is being done by the piston one side and the back of the pad the other side?

Just a thought, or you got some lube on the pads!

Posted
you need to pump the peddle repeatedly till it starts working again.

Hmmm, I'll give this a shot!

Any chance the disc has gone back between piston and pads if you see what I mean.

Instead of between the 2 pads it might have gone behind one meaning the 2 pads are together and the braking is being done by the piston one side and the back of the pad the other side?

Just a thought, or you got some lube on the pads!

I've checked that and nope. Its all in right, the piston just doesn't seem to be moving an awful lot :eusa_whistle:

Posted

sounds like it could be the master cylinder or air in the line.

Posted

If the piston's aren't moving much then it'll either be that there's air in the system, the pistons are badly seized in or the master cylinder's cream crackered, or maybe a combo of the lot. Give the back brake a good 10 or 12 pushes down, is the back brake being applied? If it finally goes on, but then drags a lot, then it's the pistons that are seized. If it doesn't come out then it's either air in there (which is being compressed when the pedal's pressed down) of the seals in the master cylinder are duff, hence not much pressure being applied. It's a fuck load cheaper to bleed it up a bit better, so I'd try that first. Undo the caliper, and all the hose bits from their clips, so the caliper's highest part of the system and it's got a straight run down the hose to the master cylinder. Hold the caliper so the bleed nipple is highest. Take the pads out, pump as much of the pistons as you can out but put a fairly large thing in the middle to stop them coming out all the way, then clean the pistons off. Undo the bleed nipple and then push the pistons back in, forcing any air out of the gaps behind the pistons. Do the nipple back up, then, keeping the piston in the air, bleed it normally. At some point during this you'll have also noticed if you've done the classic spaz back brake trick and forgotten that there might be two bleed nipples on the one caliper. Anyway, bleed it properly, refit it, then put it back on. You should find that you can get a rock solid pedal, if not, ignore it, it's only the back brake, what are you anyway, a girl? Then shit it come MOT time.

Posted
if not, ignore it, it's only the back brake, what are you anyway, a girl?

Am I the only person that uses the front and rear together? When I Brake for a corner I apply both then let off the front brake keeping my foot over the rear for abit of corner correction... I generally need a lot mind... :eusa_whistle:

Next day off is Thursday, Guess it'll have to be then! :eat:

Posted

Nope i use both but only because my forks are far to soft and i'm too lazy to do owt about it.

Posted

Have to admit that, on the road, I'm not good enough to need to use the rear very often.

Use it more in one trackday (not that they happen very often anymore... :D ) than a few months of road riding.

The off-roaders get the rear brakes abused all the time, especially by Col when riding mountain passes with no front brake.... :)

Posted

had one the other day changing pads on a Diversion, pushed the pads back and there was a little bit of air in the banjo which went into the master cylinder causing an air lock, so no amount of pumping helped.

I loosend off the Banjo bolt and the pumped fluid through with a syringe, then tightened up banjo and bled through, the operation was a success.

Posted

I'd go with pumping it back up and then bleeding it through.

Or the fact that generally NC23/29 rear brakes are rubbish, i don't think mines worked effectively in the 10 years i've had it. :icon_puke_r:

Posted

Went for a blast today on my day off! Nice weather n' all!

Kept just hoofing the back brake every so often! And after about 10 mins! She was back! Nice and strong! :icon_pale:

you need to pump the peddle repeatedly till it starts working again.

:thumbsup:B):eusa_dance:

Posted

Did you get a load of WD40 on the disk by any chance?

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