Garage floor paint / treating

[burntout]

Just been doing a spot of reading up on sprucing my garage floor to get that shiny, workshop feel to it.

I gather I should acid etch it first, rinse well and use a good paint (or epoxy).

Can anyone say anything good about any brands in particular or have any advice for this? I'm after a finish like Cabbies in his Kwikasfaki project thread.

I dont want to sling £70 in to this and have it come off the first time I walk on it in me missus' heels.

Cheers

[NumberOne]

I used garage floor paint bought from Wickes.. vacuumed the floor and gave it two coats, that was about seven years ago, still looks ok, and nothing's peel or lifted.

[lorenzo]

I did 2 coats of johnsons floor paint (in a sand colour to match my wallpaper), and annoyingly, it's starting to lift after only about 3 months. It's fine in most places, but I'll get a little thumb-nail shized patch appear where my bike tyres have been after it's been sat. Seems these tyres are a bit too grippy perhaps. I might try parking it up on little carpet tiles or something. Apart from that the paint itself is as tough as I'd expect, I've had no issues with tools chipping it or anything.

[will#224]

We run fork trucks on the painted floors at work that lift 15 ton, various oil/petrolium based fluids, some of the fluids sit on the floor more or less 24/7 and its resistant to that for almost a year. No preparation other than a good clean. The fluids that sit on the floor rot our work boots in 6 months tops so it must be pretty decent stuff.

Its just been recoated with this stuff Johnstones i'd say its best i've ever seen. Make sure its well ventilated, the fumes are really not nice!

[Pants]

as above - a mild acid to remove the excess cement(which causes it to flake away when you leave your car/bike on it), and/or seal it with a floor sealer, then a decent paint.

jobs a good 'un.

[kaighn80]

guys with the workshop next to mine have used some sort of resin, self leveling jobbie, looks good but you can see where they poured it, its almost like fibreglass resin but harder and it hasn't worn through and thats with 2 years of jacking up cars and stuff so i might do mine with somink like that.

[drunkn munky]

Used the wickes stuff in my garage which is still lokking good after 2 years, it needed 2 coats plus i put a coat of PVA down first. No idea if that helps but a builder said it would be a good idea.

It goes further than you think too, i brought 3 of what i would call small tins and still have a full one left over

[burntout]

Thanks for the replies -

I'll see how much a cheap acid cleaner is to get a well prepped surface then get some reasonable quality paint for it. I'll have to speak to my neighbours first and see if I can move my stuff into theirs otherwise I've no way of doing it one hit - unless I sacrifice a small area at the back where stuff is stored and not paint it. Tricky.

Walls first though.

[Timbo S2]

I used Wickes garage floor paint, over Wickes floor sealer. Been pretty good for 3 years, only started to flake where a tyre has sat on it for a while...

[drunkn munky]

I did my garage half at a time as i didnt have no where to store anything, took a couple of days but well worth it.

[davosaurusrex]

I did 2 coats of johnsons floor paint (in a sand colour to match my wallpaper), and annoyingly, it's starting to lift after only about 3 months. It's fine in most places, but I'll get a little thumb-nail shized patch appear where my bike tyres have been after it's been sat. Seems these tyres are a bit too grippy perhaps. I might try parking it up on little carpet tiles or something. Apart from that the paint itself is as tough as I'd expect, I've had no issues with tools chipping it or anything.

You want to be parking your bike up on a nice bit of carpet anyway as prolonged contact with the cold floor will deform the tyres, particularly over winter. Apologies if I'm telling you how to suck eggs, feel free to tell me to bugger off.

[burntout]

You want to be parking your bike up on a nice bit of carpet anyway as prolonged contact with the cold floor will deform the tyres, particularly over winter. Apologies if I'm telling you how to suck eggs, feel free to tell me to bugger off.

Paddock stands are even better than that

Abba representing the best solution IMO.

[alexp5]

Just pump your tyres up by an extra 10psi, but don't forget to correct the pressures come Spring or you might experience 'interesting' handling characteristics

If you need to etch or clean the concrete first, you can use brick acid, or patio and path cleaner. The latter is a solution of brick acid and detergent... just make sure it's dried thoroughly before painting. On my garage floor I used a couple of coats of tile primer (like PVA but waterproof) before a couple of coats of Johnstones Floor Paint. It could do with a refresh now but it's been done for over 10 years and gets a lot of traffic. Park the bike up on a big piece of cardboard as the oils in the tyres will still lift bits of paint, although the new (expensive) resin-based floor paints seem to resist this a lot better.

[Tom Mac]

zombie thread alert

decided to finally have a go at re-doing the floor paint in my workshop as its coming off in big lumps

it is/was two coats of Halford garage floor paint but as you can see its lifted. the comcrete underneath is very powder like and brushes away just by hand. I'm guessing it needs treating first, so would that be a sealer required or something else?

[fzr]

zombie thread alert

decided to finally have a go at re-doing the floor paint in my workshop as its coming off in big lumps

it is/was two coats of Halford garage floor paint but as you can see its lifted. the comcrete underneath is very powder like and brushes away just by hand. I'm guessing it needs treating first, so would that be a sealer required or something else?

when i painted my workshop (old enginering workshop) floor, i used watered down pva let it dry for a day then painted it with floor paint and hey presto still there after 1 years constant use, I have always found it the cheapest and most effective way of sealing floors.